Brazil

Fernando de Noronha is an archipelago of 21 islands and islets in the Atlantic Ocean, around 354 km (220 miles) offshore from the Brazilian coast. is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The islands of this archipelago are the visible parts of a range of submerged mountains. Consisting of 21 islands, islets and rocks of volcanic origin

Our Atlantic Crossing from South Africa was completed in three legs: from Capetown to Nambia, Nambia to St. Helena, and finally, from St. Helena to Brazil. The third leg was a real pleasure: ten days at sea beneath the shadows of a spinnaker, fish -- almighty! -- tugging on our lines and baked goods a plenty. Now that's paradise at sea.

Sadly, we were allowed only three days in port, as we failed to get our Tourist Visas back in Africa. Yet, we'd planned it this way. Due to the cost, time and red tape to acquire Brazilian Visas, we didn't see the need. Cruising the mainland wasn't in our itinerary. We were just passing through, in need of supplies and water. "Three days, and you must be gone," said the Harbormaster. After nearly a month at sea in two legs, no one was excited about the idea of departing so soon. The chore list loomed large every morning. It couldn't be ignored. So guess who went truckin when the guys were out playing? Moi!

In 1534, the Fernando de Noronha Archipelago was invaded by the English, then it was held by the French, followed by the Dutch, who were displaced two years later by a Spanish-Portuguese military expedition in the mid-1600's.

Fernando de Noronha became known as Pavonia, in honor of a director of the Dutch West Indies Company, where the island remained under Dutch control for nearly two decades until being reconquered by Portugal --- marking the end of the Dutch era in north-east Brazil.

Santo Antonio Port Bay is the main port of the archipelago. Local fishing vessels load supplies and unload fish at the main wharf, which is kept in excellent conditon. Accompanying most dramatic sunsets, is the rhythm of the fishermen, casting their nets in to the bay waters around our boat.

One day Ryan, a friend of the boys, pulled up to our boat to say hi. Out in the middle of nowhere, in the Atlantic Ocean. It's a small world.

The life above and below sea is the main attraction of the island. Sea tortoises, dolphins, albatrosses and many other species flitted above, below and around the boat most all the time.

No wonder: the island was visited by a Charles Darwin in 1834, resulting in his journal entries, which were later published as The Voyage of the Beagle.

The entire Archipelago of Fernando de Noronha hosts ecological sites ideal for exuberant marine animal life, due to its geographic location far from the continent and well within the path of the Southern Equatorial current. It was an underwater dreamworld for us, thought we found the waters chilly. Still, great waves were to be found around the bend, causing the boys to be constantly disappearing just when we needed them most!

Check out my cool red taxi -- a beach buggy! Having the four boys out surfing was my idea of heaven shopping: No one to grab more than we needed to reach port; no whining; no gimmies (I want this, I want that). In two days, our cupboards were bursting and the boys pitched in on the last day to fill the water tanks.

Last night was out on the town to attend a beach dance, attended by Grandmas, babies and teens. Our floor was made of green grass, our lights were Christmas bulbs strung across treetops and our dance audience was a herd of cows and billy goats. Best of all was my dance partner, a Brazilean grandpa, who danced like a pro. Poor Pete was stuck on the boat, keeping her ready for sea departure the next day.

The crew and I returned at night in the back of a pickup truck, still snapping our fingers and doing the merengue! Ah, Brazilean men sure know how to twirl a girl on the dirt dance floor!

Just around the bend from our anchorage, this is one of the best and most frequented beaches in the islands. Landing our dinghy in good waves was a challenge, best celebrated with a cool one while watching the soccer game unfold on the beach and Brazilean beauties parade in their very brief black bikinis! It hosts a beautiful landscape that can be view from atop the island steps of stone and wood that lead to a variety of outdorr cafes with Portugese cuisine. The guys very nearly enticed the waitress away from the cafe to be crew onboard to the Caribbean. "My Mom will be onboard too, you know! So Okay then, you come?"

Walk straight up the hill from the San Antonio Bay anchorage and across the island to the other side to view this stunning view. As I looked down the road, a shirtless man came galloping over the hill with six horses in tow! Ooh, la, laa laa! I rushed after him, knowing it was near the end of the island, so I just had to follow. He led me to this beach studded in yellow wildflowers, where he proceeded to untether his horses to feed. Against the backdrop of the azure ocean, I stayed to reflect upon my abundance in life and joy in just being right here in this very spot, all alone in peaceful reflection.

In 2001, UNESCO declared Fernando de Noronha a World Heritage Site. The reasons for this were a) the island's importance as a feeding ground for several species, including tuna, billfish, cetaceans, sharks, and marine turtles, b) a high population of resident dolphins and c) protection for endangered species, such as the hawksbill turtle and various birds.