British Virgin Islands

Before sundown, next day, we were anchored in Benures Bay, where non-wackiness was a tranquil delight. Ashore, we followed a skinny footpath up a scrubby hill to check wave conditions for passage east. At night, we were lulled to sleep by the bleating of goats, discovering their spoor on the beach next morning. Bella, our Schipperke (Belgium barge dog) went wild targeting their scent.

Tortola is the main charter center of the BVI’s. Although we’d provisioned in St Thomas, forgotten items were easily found in Road Town. After wandering through the impressive botanical gardens and the Mount Sage National Park, known by locals as 'the rain forest' , we headed over to ruminate about the Dungeon ruins, a 17th century Dutch fort.

Roads fringed in brightly colored clapboard buildings are a photographer's dream. We had to keep a sharp eye on the boys when crossing streets, being unaccustomed to approaching drivers from the opposite side of the road.

Named after a Dutch pirate, the island was settled by a Quaker family in the 18th century to grow the blockbuster, cash crop of sugar cane. Jost Van Dyke is our preferred port for Clearing In - easy and fun with friendly folks.

The entrance into White Bay was well-marked with buoys. The anchorage was comfortable and not rolly, but the winds were light that day. Ashore, the Soggy Dollar made for a cute photo with all the kids. Jost Van Dyke is infamous for its New Years parties at Little Harbr, a mooring only port. I've been told the moorings are grabbed rather quickly and early for the Christmas holidays, but friends have used two anchors, when moorings were not available. Most remembered at Joast van Dyke is the infamous Foxy shown left jammin' in the best style.

There's heaps of comaraderie at the beachfront bars at Happy Hour, but we were eager to hook up the cruising familieis at Normans Island for some beach runs and a steady routine of homeschooling hours.

Soon as the hook was down in the Bight anchorage, we launched ourselves into clear waters to explore the four caves at Treasure Pt. The island claims to be the "Treasure Island" that Robert Louis Stevenson made famous. It is the southernmost cave at Treasure Point said to have held the enormous pirate treasure. The kids were google-eyed with the intrigue. Since we had the caves to ourselves, we created a virtual pirate fantasy for them, hyping their imagination. They looked beneath rocks, in rock crannies and behind boulders for gold coins, emerald or ruby gemstones. Who needs Disney World when you can live it in the cruising life?

The beginnings of a well-anticipated night’s sleep however, were rudely interrupted by the wild cacophony aboard Willy T's beside us - the pirate ship bar and restaurant. When I peered out the porthole, folks were diving off the rafters in their birthday suits. You just never know what can happen down here in nowhere-ville!

The large open bay in Cane Garden made for fantastic swimming for the kids and long beach walks ashore. A number of quaint restaurants offered a festive affair for evening with a live band and buffet. We wandered ashore in the late afternoon hours to sit in the plethora of lounge chairs on the beach, while the kids played soccer with new cruising friends. After sundown, the live band was gearing up, so we lingered to watch winking stars emerge in the deep blue vault above us.

Topic of conversation for us gals, was a direct beeline to the Laundromat down the road, which we’d noticed on our morning walks together. (Hint: it’s before the steep hill on the right) The guys talked boat parts, so next morning, they headed up the steep hill across to Roadtown to the well-stocked chandleries. It’s a fun hike with superb panoramic views.

This was a comfortable anchorage, especially at Conch Point. The movement of charter yachts was a constant flow in and out from the mooring field inside Trellis Bay, so we opted for the seclusion and quiet a bit further away at the point. Ashore, we stopped at the pretty, red-roofed café for a cold drink on the wide deck.

We didn't stay long, as the beach was thickly blanketed with seaweed and fallen tree limbs, where a host of sand flies lay waiting for ripe juicy skin. Walks ashore were plesant enough, but not much available for rambunctious children.

We anchored Little Harbor overnight in a quiet, secluded anchorage - thank heavens! After last night's entertainment in Norman, we were primed for respite. Snorkeling on Rock Hole Pt. got us some great shots of reef fish in clear waters and the kids liked hunting for sand dollars.

The island is the exclusive domain of the discriminating tourist, so we withheld pinning wet swim suits in the shrouds and moved on. As we sailed by Dead Chest Island, we spun the legend of Blackbeard’s antic of stranding some of his men on the island, leaving them with only a cutlass and a bottle of rum. It is the inspiration for 'Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum'. From then on, they started belting out the tune with their morning milk and buttermilk pancakes. What have we done!

The Baths is a geological treasure, an enormous natural rock cathedral with sun-bathed little pools of warm, clear waters.

We were up at the crack of dawn to experience it all on our own. Gazing at it from the dinghy, it was as if a giant had dropped leftover rocks from his battle with Zeus in the heavens and they landed here for all children to revel in. Ladders, climbing ropes and slippery slopes created a virtual jungle gym for active children – adults too.

The Bitter End Yacht Club is a one of the most famous yacht clubs in the world, known for its notorious sporting events. Dining is fabulous, but beyond our budget. Still, we enjoyed the pretty beach, shops and chandlery for odd bits of busted gear needing replacing.

The large bay makes for excellent windsurfing. The boys dragged out their gear and practiced their water starts without the threat of crashing into a fleet of anchored boats. Later, we moved the boat closer to Pussers and went in for a pint of cider. My husband Peter has very fond memories of the London pubs, where he attended college. Their ciders carried a real kick though, let me tell you!

The RMS Rhone was a royal mail steam packet ship that transported cargo between England, Central and South America, and the Caribbean and was built in 1865. Measuring 310’, she was a favorite with British passengers because of her lightening speed of 14 knots, lavish cabins, and ability to withstand storms.

On the day of her sinking, she pulled into Peter Island to refuel, but stayed due to worsening weather, unaware of an approaching hurricane. The 1st half of the storm hit with the Rhone incurring much damage, but captain RF Wooley was concerned about the passing of the eye of the storm, for the change of wind direction could drive them up onto Peter Island. It was decided the Rhone would make for open sea and the passengers were lashed to their beds, as was practice at the time, to prevent injury in stormy seas.

Just as the Rhone was passing Black Rock Pt, the 2nd half of the storm struck and she was thrown onto the rocks. The lurch sent Capt. Wooley overboard. The ship split in two; cold sea water made contact with the red hot boilers, causing them to explode. She sank swiftly with all hands; only 23 survived, all crew. The 124 passengers were buried at the Salt Island cemetery.

Though the shipwreck lies in 85’ of water, we were able to view the immense sea life and hulk of the ship without tanks, free-diving down 20-30’. Scattered remains of the boiler, deck supports and chain are visible. The wreckage was featured in the 1977 filming of “The Deep” with Jacqueline Bisset in her infamous wet t-shirt.

Visited by Christopher Columbus in 1493, the islands were first settled by the Dutch in 1648, acquired by England in 1666, then part of the Federation of the Leeward Islands from 1871 to 1956. In between, piracy flourished in the 1700’s. Needing a centrally located court to try enemy captains, the British established Road Town in Tortola. It became a center for political intrigue and all the inherent wealth that goes with it. Prosperity came a century later from sugar cane production.

A hurricane in 1819 destroyed the sugar crop, and it never recovered, nor was it supplanted by any other cash crop. Plantation owners fled, as did former slaves, whom had been freed decades before emancipation in the Danish islands (today, the US Virgin Is.) Only tourism brought back the prosperity islanders had been accustomed to. Today, the waters are their main asset, and well-protected at that.