The Mamanucas are a group of islands located just off the western shore of Viti Levu in a lagoon formed between the Great Sea Reef and the mainland. The islands of Monu and Monuriki are the islands featured in Tom Hank's Cast Away. Mamanucas is pronounced "Ma-ma-nuth-us." There are many different resorts to stay at in the Mamnucas.
Musket Cove in the Malolo Islands of Western Fiji reunited us with our good friends on "Ocelot" (hackingfamily.com) with teen Amanda, Jon and Sue. We'd last cruised the Caribbean together in 2003. New friends were made in Malomalo, and we all participated together in Regatta events.
The outer reef provided excellent snorkeling. Sue and I often took to the hills to explore the countryside on the main island, photographing the friendly, handsome people. Evenings were spent around the numerous beach-barbecues, grilling chicken and sausages. Many great yarns were told over these late night fires.
You’ll never see a more exuberant and vibrant people in all of Oceania. Both Fijians and East Indians (formerly brought over as indentured servants to work the sugar and cotton plantations in mid-1800’s) live in harmony, retaining strong cultural ties to time-honored traditions, making Fiji one of the most interesting islands we visited. The Fijian Groups cover 1.3 million sq. km of ocean with 322 islands, only 100 of which are inhabited. We stopped at Greater Fiji (Viti Levu) on the southern end.
Fiji
After a short passage of five days from Western Samoa, we anchored on the south coast of Fiji in front of a small village. Soon, an elder and a group of village children motored out us in a dug-out canoe. Like energetic little ants, they swarmed over “Scud”, sending us into peels of laughter. We were delighted with their presence. When they departed, we handed them gifts for the chief and the other village chilren. The elder insisted Warren sign “Scud” onto the back of Adam’s old t-shirt, as a gift to the chief's son.
As in years past, outside of the main cities, the Fijians still live in villages along the rivers or coast, with 50 to 400 people led by a hereditary chief. The traditional thatched roof bure has been replaced by buildings of tin and panel. They still work the communal land individually and grow most of their own food. One of the highlights of any trip to Fiji is a visit to a Fijian village. Later, we did, up the Bituri River. But first, we needed to clear Customs in Suva, so we bit a sad farewell to our island friends and were off the next day.
We found Suva to be hot and sticky and thriving with industry. The city is Fiji's most concentrated confluence of ethnicities and cultures, so though we were swimming in an urban milieu, we discovered the influence of every island and background of every native. Small passages transported us to another imaginary foreign land. We sampled Indian curries, wandered into colorful sari shops and into interesting curios that sold replicas of human forks and ancient weapons as souvenirs. Being fierce warriors, the early Fijians were cannibals, using brain forks to consume their enemies. It was thought that by eating the defeated enemy you would incorporate their power into yourself. Since half of the country's population resides in Suva, we were happy to make way into the outer islands, away from urban jungle and into peaceful tranquility.
Before we departed though, the boys accompanied me to the farmers’ market. There we were invited to partake in the more casual kava ceremony that is open to non-locals. The kava numbed our lips and tongue, and tasted like rotting river water, but it is of utmost importance to finish the half-coconut shell. Otherwise, we'd embarrass ourselves at not having ‘gone native’. I barely finished mine. Adam stood as witness to our bravery, and Warren ended up sick in bed all day. When in Rome, do as the Romans do? It is the culture, still practiced today!
Fire walking is believed to have been given to a former warrior by a spirit god, and is an act of thanking him for help with difficult circumstances, like drought or disease.
By dinghy we motored up the Bituri River with Jon and Sue on "Ocelot" to visit the villagers. Using a hand drawn map, we navigated through the mangrove forests up narrow channels, until we discovered a dug-out canoe hidden behind massive mangrove roots.
To understand one's culture, one must become immersed within it. In foreign lands, we attend their churches to hear their voices lift in harmonious song, feeling their community spirit. Often, we were invited into their homes and served tea, sharing our thoughts and experiences.
Here, the children are dressed in lavalavas for school and church.
Sue is seated in the home of the chief and his wife, sharing tea on their traditionally handcrafted mat.
School Children Dressed in the Traditional Lavalava
Curious children in church
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One of the fascinating things about going to Fiji is learning about their culture and customs. Society centered around the extended family and families lived together in villages which were headed by a hereditary chief. The village consisted of bures, which are thatched roof huts as seen above. Once we made contact with the chief, he invited us into his home. Afterwards, we joined him in a Kava Ceremony, bearing gifts of kave root and school supplies.
A Family Fishing on the Bituri River
An Island Woman with her baby and young boy
Bure - the Traditional Thatch Hut of a Chief
Malolo Lailai Island in the Mamanucas " Ma-ma-nuth-us" Group
One of the biggest customs is the Yaqona Ceremony. Yaqona, which is also known as Kava, comes from the dried root of the pepper plant and is a tranquilizing, nonalcoholic drink. The yaqona is ceremonially prepared according to local traditions, by pulverizing the root into a powder and then mixing it with your hands with water in a tanoa or wooden bowl. Everyone then partakes of the drink in a simple ceremony. The Kava or Yaqona Ceremony and drinking of kava is an important part of every Fijian's life . When you are offered a bilo, the cup with the kava, you clap once, say "Bula" and then drink it all at once. After drinking the kava, you pass the cup back and you clap three times. Then pray the bowl doesn't come back your way for a second go around! It takes like dirty mud water. Warren was passed the cup too many times and ended up in bed for the rest of the day. Hum, what's with that?
The Waka Root - Used for Preparing Kava
Fijians love to sing and dance and the term Meke refers to a combination of dance, song and theater performed telling the stories of their violent past.
As a tribal custom, the women dance the SEASEA, sometimes flourishing fans. When dancing the MEKE, the men wear frangipani leis, sarongs, and leg-dresses of shredded palm fronds. It's pretty sexy to watch. I can see why Fijian families are quite large!
Fire Walking
In Fiji, both the Fijians and the Indians practice firewalking with the exception being that the Fijians walk on heated stones and the Indians walk on the hot embers.
The tradition was brought over with the Indians and is taken very seriously.
At the Robinson Crusoe Resort on Likuri Island, located on the south coast of Viti Levu at the mouth of the Bituri River, Fijian men enacted war heroics of the past by blackening faces with charcoal and twirling spears, fire batons and machete-like knives with frightening skill in a riviting dance.
Warren & Adam Hunt Down the Kava Root
Curry Spices
Alleyway announces kava to heal all ailments
Tanoa - ceremonial yaqona mixing bowl
Hindu Temple
Islanders arrived by dugout to offer their traditional greetings and request to bring you ashore to meet the big Chief
Warren giving kava big gulp
Mothers dancing the SEASEA.
Peter and Jon Hacking holding the dinghy, while Sue and Tina give heartfelt goodbyes to the islanders
Sue from" Ocelot" stands with Peter for directions across the hills
A young girl gives us her best act
Neighbors sit in doorways to exchange gossip
Fijian men dancing a battle cry
Walking on hot coals.
Steam announces evidence of real heat beneath for serious coal walking.
F R E E B I R D
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