Grenada

Carriacou is a step back in time. Just the way we like it. Part of the Grenada archipelago, the petite isle remains in a relaxed affair, where endearing locals and an eclectic village life adds to the sublime scenery. Heaps of kids here, too

Tucked into a quiet cove on the southwest side of Carriacou, sailors gather at Tyrrel Bay for Regatta at the end of the summer, then rarely move, finding the anchorage idyllic. Teens love it for the fun and games with other kids. Adults love it for the cruising camaraderie. I love it for the interesting walks ashore along cliff-side narrow roads that lead into farmland. Before you know it, I'm staring into the eyes of a bellowing cow with calf in tow. Goats skitter into the brush and I carry on, lost in absolute reverie with a new cruising girlfriend, one whom I can share cruising adjustments with, other than my husband - he may not just 'get it'.

Regatta time ignites Hillsborough village into a rush of frantic activities and cruisers, too! Entertaining events fill the afternoons, as locals and sailors compete for prizes. We crewed with another family in the Cruising Class. Above, an island athlete scurries across an oil-slicked pole to grab the orange soda bottle at the end, before tumbling into the waters below. Our boys had a go and Warren very nearly made it, to the applause of his cruising buddies. Exciting parades, melodic Reggae music and West Indian cuisine beckons you day after day back into Hillsborough for more.

After the buzz of Regatta time, catch the local jitney for a tiny fare at Tyrrel Bay anchorage in the mornings, stopping at the local farmers markets before heading back for the nightly cruising barbecues held at twilight in the quayside street, empty of traffic, except for wandering goats and chickens.

St George’s, the largest town, has one of the most picturesque waterfronts in all of the Caribbean. Stone buildings, forts from a forgotten time and houses of all colors meld into a hilly buffet of urban aesthetics. Friendly, welcoming locals go about their lives and are happy to include you in the process.

Above right, Sky (1st left) includes the boys in on his scooter fun, soaring downhill at breakneck speed, passing galloping jitneys on his descent.

When pursuing through the labyrinth of isles at the farmers market, ask how to prepare the new and exotic foods. A kind village woman will share her secret recipe, then tuck an extra fruit in your basket as a hidden gift, discovered later, when unpacking your purchases. Be sure to stop in at the Nutmeg (located on the waterfront) for a roti with your new girlfriends, before catching a jitney back to Pricky Bay.

Grenada has several fabulous waterfalls. All easy to get to – just stick your thumb out to flag down the jitney roaring past. You’ll hear him, before you see him!

The many falls can either be a leisurely stroll, or arduous trek, depending upon your fitness level and craving for high adventure. Here are some of our favorites...........

Concord is three waterfalls.

Lying in the Grand Etang National Forest, the waters were crystal clear and ice cold. A family with young children joined us on our hike that day. Trekking to the Corcords Fallls was easy for the children’s little feet. A paved road practically led right up to the pool.

The Au Coin falls was a 45 minute hike, with the trail winding through a nutmeg plantation. It was the largest of the Concord Falls we hiked to.

The Fontainbleu Falls cascaded down a 65 foot cliff and was a little tricky to find. It was a little off the beaten track, but we all loved it. Having started out early morning, we finished our half-eaten picnic lunch here, then caught a waiting jitney for our return to the boat. We’d scheduled a pick-up ahead of time.

Many jitney drivers refer to these cascades as the Marquis Falls. Anchored in Prickly Bay, it was short, but wild ride, two miles south of Grenville. Being the highest on the island the falls tumble down a 70 feet rock wall into cool pools below.

We took the 30 minute trail through a private plantation that was dripping with nutmeg, bananas and ginger. The boys ran up ahead, having heard a long way off on our approach. Though an entrance fee was required, we didn’t mind, and nicely declined the aid of a guide to show us the way.

In the Prickly Bay anchorage, word in the dinghies was to brace yourself for these falls. We discovered why, when we got there. Being hiking enthusiasts, we relished the winding trail through wet, although sometimes muddy, rain forest. Colossal ginger plants, anthuriums and nutmeg adored trees like Christmas ornaments.

The easy hike took 45 minutes. If you’re not tired out from watching kids dive off these falls, a more noble and hidden one lies around the corner, called the Honeymoon Falls. We missed it the first time, but nose to the ground, we sniffed out better the 2nd time around.

Wondering about the thrill of these falls? Read our account, published in Caribbean Compass. Link above.

A friendly chump we found waiting for us on the trailhead of Mt. Carmel. He was eager to sniff out the banana in Warren's backpack.

Grenada consists of the big island of Grenada, and six smaller ones, with Carriacou being a sailor's favorite. The archipelago is located at the southern end of the Grenadines. A good port for waiting out hurricanes (although hurricane Ivan challenged that traditional theory!), sailors gather at popular quayside cafes to chat and share yarns. A live Reggae band belts out popular Bob Marley and Jimmy Buffet tunes on the weekends.